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Post by Charlotte on Aug 13, 2006 18:10:13 GMT -5
This is just a "heads up" for you CZ owners that are reluctant to use a .22 cal. rod. The Otis .22 cal. brushes fit the Dewey .17 cal. rod without having to use an adapter. Two patches on the .17 cal. jag give a good fit.
And for a really cheap source of cleaning patches, I get painters rags and cut them to size. They are T-shirt scraps and can be bought at Home Depot and any paint store.
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Post by jb on Aug 13, 2006 21:13:11 GMT -5
For those that use cleaning rods and bore guides. Dewey has a .20 caliber rod out now as well along with brushes and jags. It might work a bit better than non-custom .22 caliber rods and jags.
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Post by Charlotte on Aug 14, 2006 20:13:09 GMT -5
but I'd like to make a confession. From my own observation using my pullthroughs to clean my CZ's in 22 lr, when I grabbed a rod and brushed it, the patches came out NASTY. Now, I've been using a home made pullthrough to wet the bore and then an Otis and Boresnakes. The pullthroughs just aren't as efficient. Honestly, I thought they were better than that. The proof was in the patches.
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ALS
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by ALS on Aug 21, 2006 16:36:02 GMT -5
Might as well get this thread off to a good start. (and then duck and run)
I use a bore snake with bronze brushes still attached, and my barrel hasn't worn out.
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Post by rimfire kid on Aug 21, 2006 18:15:03 GMT -5
I use a bore snake, that is when I finally do clean the barrel.
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Post by Midwest Swiss on Aug 21, 2006 21:44:01 GMT -5
I use a bore snake too on my 10/22's at the range
only. I have 3 of them. I took a sharpie & marked
1 or 2 or 3 on each of the box's that they came in.
Then I clean my gun with the snake #1 will always
be the dirty one all the time. Then use #2 next then
use #3. Seems to be working.
Swiss
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Post by Jordan F. on Aug 24, 2006 20:59:40 GMT -5
I admit, I use a cleaning rag and a brass brush. I use the Dewey .20 caliber rod with a 17a adapter I believe. Works slick  |
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Post by Charlotte on Sept 10, 2006 12:45:59 GMT -5
I just cleaned my 17. Started out with Breakfree and brushed the bore probably 20 times and never could get a really clean patch. I switched to Hoppee's Elite and got some more crud out, but never got a really clean patch. I kept getting these tiny black streaks as if there was powder left right in the corner of where the land meets the wall of a land. Switched to a wet patch using Hoppee's #9 powder solvent and it came out thoroughly black. Went to the brush again soaked in #9 and finally got the thing cleaned.
It's funny, I'm working my way back to where I started on cleaning. Whatever works.
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Post by Brad Clodfelter on Sept 10, 2006 15:47:26 GMT -5
but I'd like to make a confession. From my own observation using my pullthroughs to clean my CZ's in 22 lr, when I grabbed a rod and brushed it, the patches came out NASTY. Now, I've been using a home made pullthrough to wet the bore and then an Otis and Boresnakes. The pullthroughs just aren't as efficient. Honestly, I thought they were better than that. The proof was in the patches. Charlotte, I have been trying to tell people this for the last couple of years. Take the test. Clean any barrel with a pull through cleaner till you think it is spotless. Then go use a good rod and bore guide. Screw on a brass brush with applied solvent(Butch's and Kroil mixed 50/50 is what I use)and push it through the barrel and pull it back through for only 5 passes. Now run a jag with a wet or dry patch. Watch the end of your barrel as all the crud will come out. A barrel that hasn't had a brush through it at all, or one that just seldomly gets a brush maybe once or twice a year will see a patch come out super black and cruddy. But hey it's their barrels and if they think they shoot fine then they probably never seen what a truely clean barrel will shoot like, so they really don't know what they are saying. Also Charlotte, if you use Butch's and Kroil mixed 50/50 and put it a plastic squeeze bottle to apply your solvent on your brush, you will see that your barrel will get cleaner a lot faster and have white patches coming out in no time. My Suhl barrel gets clean real quick. White patches in no time. You will also see that your barrel will stay cleaner in between cleanings. Don't ask me how, but my hunch is the Kroil acts as a slick barrier to the inside of the barrel wall. Only my hunch, but I can tell you no other safe mixture that I'm aware of can clean a barrel any faster. Brad |
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Post by nightfighter on Oct 1, 2006 20:07:44 GMT -5
Actually , a very good cleaning thread, too. What a nice surprise.
Thanks,
NF
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Post by Charlotte on Oct 2, 2006 8:00:01 GMT -5
I've heard nothing but good reviews of Kroil. I have to get some. On my centerfires I've had better results with copper removal with Hoppee's Benchrest than with Butch's. I have an 8 oz. can of Viet Nam era milsurp bore cleaner I got from a local store called Military Depot. They have new and used GI slings, bore cleaners from WW2-present day CLP, 1911 holsters, bore and chamber brushes. The place is more like a real Army-Navy Store used to be with some field manuals, lots of uniforms, WW2 pup tents, sleeping bags, blankets. Only a very small part of the store has non military items like knives, Air-Soft, etc.
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Post by grandparem on Oct 2, 2006 10:58:12 GMT -5
I'm a fan of Kroil also. I had used Kroil for years at work, but never thought of it as anything but a penetrating oil. I recently bought a can from Midway when they had it on sale... I cleaned a rifle with the Shooters Choice that I had been using, then ran a patch through it with Kroil. It was like starting all over again. Came out just as black as when I started with S.C. That was with straight Kroil... I have since mixed half and half with S.C. and that's what I'm using now on rimfires. Still use Hoppes Copper Solvent for centerfires.... may try the Kroil in them one of these days. Since Kroil is a penetrating oil, I dry the gun off after using it and put on a protective oil (ClensOil).
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Post by nightfighter on Oct 2, 2006 21:15:14 GMT -5
2 questions:
Brad, why do you use 50/50 Butches & Kroil instead of straight Kroil?
grandparem, if Kroil worked better than S.C., why do you use them 50/50 instead of straight Kroil?
Thanks in advance,
NF
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Post by Brad Clodfelter on Oct 2, 2006 21:37:36 GMT -5
2 questions: Brad, why do you use 50/50 Butches & Kroil instead of straight Kroil? grandparem, if Kroil worked better than S.C., why do you use them 50/50 instead of straight Kroil? Thanks in advance, NF KROIL is a penetrating oil that helps to free up anything that is rusted are seized up due to corrosion. Butches is supposedly one of the least chemical based solvents that is less corrosive than other solvents. They both go hand in hand in getting a barrel clean in a safe effective manner. Plus it was passed on to me from a friend who said he read about it in Precision Shooter magazine. The stuff flat out cleans a barrel faster than anything else I have tried. Which one actually works the best at cleaning a barrel, I can't really say. But I will say that I wouldn't hesitate to clean a barrel with just KROIL either. I honestly believe it would get any barrel clean. It gets under any matter, and seems to free it up from the source it is actually adhering too. Brad |
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Post by nightfighter on Oct 2, 2006 22:02:37 GMT -5
Thanks Brad..
I've read abut so many different things ,from WD_40, Liquid Wrench, and ..I think it was called Eds Red...but Kroil I'm going to try.
So far I've been happy using corrosionX. I polished the bore with bore bright in the beginning, and since then run a patch of cX through and let it sit first thing after shoting.
I've gotten clean patches fairly quickly and the bore looks clean, but I haven't tried Charlottes acid test yet..guess I better.
NF
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