Oh goodie, a cleaning thread

[grandparem]

nightfighter said:

2 questions:


grandparem, if Kroil worked better than S.C., why do you use them 50/50 instead of straight Kroil?

Thanks in advance,

NF

I concur with what Brad said.... from past experience with Kroil, it's a pretty powerful penetrating oil. I worked in the experimental lab of a hydraulics company for 25 years, as a fabricator and maintenance tech. We would modify customer machines with our hydraulic systems and sometimes we had really stubborn bolts and screws to deal with on machines that had been in the field. Kroil was the penetrating oil of choice to work on the really rusty, corroded things. Also on our test machines, we would get what is known as "fretting corrosion" where bearings were destroyed and corroded themselves to a shaft.... Kroil, with a little heat, was probably the best thing to help break them loose.
Because of this, I "just have the feeling" that it's not a good protective oil. By cutting it with another oil, maybe it isn't as harmful if not dried off and protected with something else right away. This is just my personal feeling.... it may not be harmful to anything at all, but it still seems to clean, even when diluted with another bore cleaner.
I have never tried Corrosion X, but I probably will one of these days. I think I would be more inclined to use it externally for taking rust off an old gun.

[Brad Clodfelter]

nightfighter,

I use JB Bore-Bright on my Suhl barrel occasionaly to polish it and free up any tight spots in the barrel from say 6 inches from the muzzle end of the barrel on back. Kent Owens recommended it to me and to stay away from the muzzle end due the the fact that it will probably have a tapered choke to where the bore is tighter near the end of the barrel. He said that's the way Anschutz made their barrels. And Anschutz and Suhl are basically the exact same made gun, but made by both.

Brad

[nightfighter]

grandparem said:

nightfighter said:

2 questions:


grandparem, if Kroil worked better than S.C., why do you use them 50/50 instead of straight Kroil?

Thanks in advance,

NF

I concur with what Brad said.... from past experience with Kroil, it's a pretty powerful penetrating oil. I worked in the experimental lab of a hydraulics company for 25 years, as a fabricator and maintenance tech. We would modify customer machines with our hydraulic systems and sometimes we had really stubborn bolts and screws to deal with on machines that had been in the field. Kroil was the penetrating oil of choice to work on the really rusty, corroded things. Also on our test machines, we would get what is known as "fretting corrosion" where bearings were destroyed and corroded themselves to a shaft.... Kroil, with a little heat, was probably the best thing to help break them loose.
Because of this, I "just have the feeling" that it's not a good protective oil. By cutting it with another oil, maybe it isn't as harmful if not dried off and protected with something else right away. This is just my personal feeling.... it may not be harmful to anything at all, but it still seems to clean, even when diluted with another bore cleaner.
I have never tried Corrosion X, but I probably will one of these days. I think I would be more inclined to use it externally for taking rust off an old gun.

Thanks for your reply..that speaks well of Kroil.

..So if I use straight Kroil, I would need to follow up with a protective oil..

NF

[nightfighter]

Brad,

I like the way my bore tightens up near the muzzle, and will remember that next time I use bore bright..

As for corrosionX, it is supposed to get under any sort of fouling. I used it in my barrel since new. Last night I ran a patch through with cX on it and this afternoon it didn't take long to get a clean patch.

Then I used a brush with Outers nitro solvent and it came out dirty, but didn't take too many patches to get clean..then I ran a patch through with cX and then a dry patch.

Sounds like Kroil is the best though, and I'll be trying that soon. I'm curious to see if I'm missing any crud.

NF

[claybuster]

Gosh, I kinda hate to get into another cleaning thread but here goes:

My procedure is a lot like Brad's. I wet the bore with a patch soaked with Shooter's Choice Lead Remover, brush it a bunch (like 10 passes through & back) with a tight bronze brush ( I pitch them when they get loose, like after a dozen or so cleanings), run 3 or 4 dry clean patches (bt then it's pretty clean), then a patch wetted w/ a 50/50 mix of Butch's & Kroil, then 2 or 3 clean dry patches.

I'm pretty anal; this is done after every outing; that's 2 or 3 times weekly. If it's hurt the barrel any I sure can't tell it.

[Brad Clodfelter]

Right on Stan.

nightfighter,

I always follow with 2 Remoil patches after using the 50/50 mixture.

Some will say that KROIL isn't a rust preventitive. I have checked the can, and to the best of my knowledge it says it prevents rust.

But I use the Remoil patches just to be safe now. But I didn't when I first started using this mixture until I was told different.

Brad

[grandparem]

nightfighter said:

grandparem said:

Thanks for your reply..that speaks well of Kroil.

..So if I use straight Kroil, I would need to follow up with a protective oil..

NF

That's just my opinion. I don't think it makes a good protective oil.
I use ClenzOil... it was originally designed as a long term protectant for tooling and fixturing that might be in storage for some time. I have not had a gun rust if I didn't handle it too much with ClenzOil on it. I have "argued" the pros and cons of things like the silicon sacks, which I feel by themselves don't help a da*# bit.

[nightfighter]

Thanks for the help guys; I appreciate it.

NF

[sheffieldshootr]

Look at what my 15 year old Anschutz 1710 sporter (I purchased it new - one owner) did this morning on a USBR target at 25 yards (250-9X with SK Std Plus):





And I haven't ever even owned a bore guide.

My method of cleaning after about every 200 to 300 rounds is:

Using a quality stainless steel .22 rod, I first make a single pass with a bronze brush or two passes if I have been firing any plated ammo.

Then I make passes with a jag and patch soaked in Hoppe's #9 or Ed's Red (whichever is on hand at the time) until they come out clean (usually only takes three or four tops). I run a clean dry patch after each soaked one.

Finally, I run through a single jagged patch soaked with BreakFree CLP or at times, I have used RemOil.

I would estimate that at least ten thousand rounds have been fired through this Anschutz.

[Dwight Pilkilton]

WOW Danny

That put my CZ American to shame...good shooting.

Remember the novel "Without Remorse" ;D

Dwight

[sheffieldshootr]

admin said:

Remember the novel "Without Remorse" ;D

Dwight

I do remember that novel. But, I doubt if I could shoot a score this high with Clark's home made silencer attached .

He even detailed using Eley Tenex didn't he? Talk about "whispering death".

Actually with some of the SK or Eley Subsonic HPs I tried last year in this rifle and my CZs, he probably wouldn't even have needed the "can". At least in that neighborhood.

[randymac]

sheffieldshootr said:

Look at what my 15 year old Anschutz 1710 sporter (I purchased it new - one owner) did this morning on a USBR target at 25 yards (250-9X with SK Std Plus):





And I haven't ever even owned a bore guide.

My method of cleaning after about every 200 to 300 rounds is:

Using a quality stainless steel .22 rod, I first make a single pass with a bronze brush or two passes if I have been firing any plated ammo.

Then I make passes with a jag and patch soaked in Hoppe's #9 or Ed's Red (whichever is on hand at the time) until they come out clean (usually only takes three or four tops). I run a clean dry patch after each soaked one.

Finally, I run through a single jagged patch soaked with BreakFree CLP or at times, I have used RemOil.

I would estimate that at least ten thousand rounds have been fired through this Anschutz.

thats a heck of a nice target from a beat up old anschutz.


Randy

[grandparem]

Had to go look in the back of my pickup to be sure my front rest was still there.
Nice lookin Anschutz.... I borrowed a friend's 1710 for a match last spring.... his is a heavier barrel, no sights and stock is different.... like a varmint weight gun. I think with a little work with the right ammo, it would shoot good too. I adjusted the trigger weight down, but needs to be lighter still.... guy that owns it didn't want it too light.
I shot it in our unlimited class, simply because I didn't have anywhere else to shoot it... took 3rd out of about a dozen shooters.... two Rem. 40Xs finished 1 - 2.

[toopointer]

I have been using Butch's and Breakfree for awhile now with good results ( I think ) Breakfree says it leaves a protective film on the parts. After reading this thread, I think I will run a patch of Rem. Oil in my barrel just to be sure.
too

[claybuster]

toopointer said:

I have been using Butch's and Breakfree for awhile now with good results ( I think ) Breakfree says it leaves a protective film on the parts. After reading this thread, I think I will run a patch of Rem. Oil in my barrel just to be sure.
too

Unless you are going to let the gun set for some time without shooting it I wouldn't worry about oiling the bore, TP. The last wet patch I run thru mine is wet w/ a 50/50 mix of Butch's & Kroil but I follow that w/ 2 or 3 clean dry patches. I shoot 2 or 3 times a week so it doesn't set idle too long. With an oily bore I imagine you'll have to run quite a few rounds (a dozen or so) thru it before it settles down - quicker w/ a dry one.......